Bobbing around the Balkans part 2

Our border crossing to Albania was very uneventful although the border point was right alongside Lake Skadar so we did have some beautiful views. We had two nights booked in Shkoder and had been hoping to done a 3 day / 2 night trek from nearby Valbone to Theth but the terrible weather that we’d had in Montenegro was following us and the ferry that we needed to catch wasn’t running so we’d agreed that we’d have an excuse to return to Albania in the future.

We borrowed a couple of bikes from our hostel and cycled to the fortress. It was a pretty hairy bike ride along a really busy road with lots of double parking. The fortress itself had amazing views over the lake and town and was a pleasant way to while away a few hours.

Our plan had been to head south in Albania and hit the coast but as the weather was so awful we had a rethink and decided to head east straight away to Kosovo, down into North Macedonia from there and then head back into Albania. Prizren in Kosovo looked to be pretty due east on the map but there are no direct buses from Shkoder. We asked around at a lot of travel agencies and most of them just shrugged their shoulders at us. We went to one which turned out to be shut but the girl next door who was working in an aesthetic beauty place was one of the more helpful people that we met! She called the agency for us and told us to go to Milot, a town halfway between Shkoder and Tirana. We’d heard differing opinions about whether we should go to Tirana or Milot. The tourist information person wasn’t that helpful either but did tell us where we could get a 5.30pm bus from in Milot. So the next day we ummed and ahhed and as we left the hostel we were aiming for Tirana. We even asked a taxi driver if he wanted to drive us (we were often asked if we wanted to go to Montenegro, but he seemed no one wanted to take us to Kosovo!) but he just told us to go to Milot so at that moment we changed our mind and decided that’s what we would do.

The conductor on the bus must have checked about 5 times that we definitely wanted to go to Milot and not Tirana (we were getting the impression that backpackers don’t really ply this route) and after about an hour they left us on what felt like the hard shoulder of an Albanian motorway and pointed us in the direction we needed to go. So not for the first time on this trip we found ourselves walking along the hard shoulder, only this time for 3km with our rucksacks. I had the intention to head for the gas station that the tourist information place had said the 5.30pm bus left from and hope for the best. Worst case scenario we’d only have to wait 8 hours for it. We stopped at another gas station for a coffee and to check we were heading the right way and they seemed to confirm it so we continued our path. We arrived, spoke to the attendant and he confirmed we were in the right place, he pointed out where we should wait and said that the buses would pull in so we just sat and waited. We actually didn’t have to wait too long, probably only 30 minutes until we saw a bus with Pristina on the front, we told them we wanted to go to Prizren, and they ushered us on! We arrived at the border and they took our passports for us and took care of all the formalities for us, we didn’t even need to leave the bus! There was short comfort break after that and everyone took care of us and ensured we didn’t miss the bus. We reached the outskirts of Prizren and we found ourselves again being thrown out at the hard shoulder, only this time the bus company had arranged and paid for a taxi for us to take us into the centre! We had such fun doing this journey, and sometimes we actually find it less stressful to not have anything booked!

Similar to Bosnia the phrase ‘the Kosovo war’ was relatively fresh in our minds, and we weren’t really too sure what to expect. The people were so friendly and helpful always having a smile and saying hello, although we did often get mistaken for being German! The city of Prizren was in excellent condition with hardly any scars. There was a monument to freedom and a Serbian Orthodox Church which was behind barbed wire, but those were the only obvious sides of conflict that we found. Prizren had another fortress which we visited early in the morning for free- it’s open 24 hours a day and we had it to ourselves at 7am.

After Kosovo we headed to North Macedonia, we hadn’t planned on going to Skopje and Joey was almost anti going there as we’re not massive city fans, but Skopje is the birthplace of Mother Teresa and given that we’d visited her grave in India I really wanted to make a quick stop to see her birthplace. We only spent the afternoon there visiting the old town, her Memorial house and around the corner from that there is a plaque and some trees where her house used to stand. It was quite moving to visit and we’re both glad that we did. We also visited the Alexander the Great Statue which was huge, very impressive. We left the next morning on an early bus to Lake Ohrid. One thing we noticed in this area is how poorly signed and named accommodation is here! Our apartment in Skopje was called ‘lovely condo next to Salt room’ on booking.com but luckily the owner had given us excellent directions otherwise we wouldn’t have stood a chance. Ohrid wasn’t quite as clear, the address didn’t have a number, I didn’t think too much of that until we were walking down the road (which had several offshoots) trying to find the unnumbered, unnamed place!

Lake Ohrid was beautiful. The Macedonian side of it is a UNESCO World Heritage site and it’s not hard to see why. The lake water is so clear and it’s surrounded by beautiful hills and mountains. It was definitely tempting to stay longer than we’d planned for but we had to press on.

We spent our time walking around the lake, sitting watching the sunset and exploring the old town. We took a bus out to Sveti Naum monastery and walked around the lake and grounds there. There were several peacocks there determined to put on a show and they even gave chase to Joey when they deemed that he got a little too close! By far our favourite thing though was when we hired a guy to row us across the lake to some natural under water springs. The lake water was so clear, in places it’s as deep as 3.5 metres and you can see the bottom. He explained that in that area motorboats are banned and no fishing is allowed in order to protect the lake. He rowed us out to the middle of the lake and pointed out the bubbles in the sand at the bottom of the lake where the natural springs are. We saw lots of tiny ducklings, including some which must have been only a day old. We paid slightly extra to have the boat to ourselves and we were so glad that we did as it really enhanced our experience and we agreed that was definitely one of the best things we have done so far.

From Ohrid we took an early morning bus to Tirana, Albania with the aim of catching an onward bus to Berat. There were two minibuses leaving for Tirana, one left slightly ahead of us but the driver had forgotten to shut the back door, where all the luggage was before driving off at speed. Luckily enough people shouted at him to attract his attention, before any luggage was lost. If we were thought we were in the right minibus we were mistaken. We had driven about 20 minutes before a guy right opposite us, who was dressed in full army fatigues, asked the driver to stop so he could be sick. We could hear him retching at the side of the road and I was not looking forward to him getting back on in case he was sick again. There was quite an intense conversation between him and the driver, the road between Ohrid and Tirana looked windy on the map and I was very fearful. Luckily he disappeared at the border, which I was very grateful for – I am not good around sick, or the sound of someone being sick, or the smell of it.

We made it to Tirana international bus station without further incident, and just needed to change bus terminals, another 2km walk in the searing heat but we’d rather that than pay for a taxi! Once we reached the regional bus terminal (I say terminal; it was just a massive melee of buses) we got spotted, and swept up by a conductor who obviously thought we looked like two people who wanted to go to Berat (we did in fact, want to go to Berat) and 10 minutes later we were on our way to Berat! The terminal at Berat is about 3km outside the centre so we waited for a local, bus, I found some WiFi and messaged the apartment owner to tell him our approximate time of arrival and he messaged straight back and said he would come and pick us up! The hospitality that we have been shown in the Balkans has been second to none, and we’re so grateful to everyone that we have met who has helped us and shown us kindness.

Berat is another UNESCO World Heritage site and is known as the city of windows. It’s not hard to see why! There’s another lovely fortress you can climb (again it’s open 24 hours- people live there!) but if you visit outside the core hours of 9-6pm you don’t need to pay. We climbed the ridiculous hill and arrived around 8.30, beating the crowds and the need to pay! We spent most of the morning walking around a few times and visiting the museum which has a large, impressive iconostasis. Iconostasises are quite the thing in this neck of the woods, and we’ve seen a lot now.

We wanted to head to the beach after Berat, there are a lot to choose from in Albania but we didn’t want to go to beaches that were really touristy so we looked at where we could get a direct bus too and then just picked one. We opted for Vlorë, it wasn’t in the Lonely Planet guide book, but I found a blog that mentioned it had sandy beaches which was good news for us! We were waiting for a local bus to take us to the bus station when we saw a bus approaching to Vlorë so we flagged it down for a free lift to the bus station and the onward journey! Upon arrival at Vlorë the driver asked a local girl who spoke some English to help us with where we wanted to go and she went out of her way to take us to the bus stop. She was training to be a nurse and was on her way to university and at the speed she was walking us I think she was going to be late! The bus arrived, we got off where our host told us too, but again there was no signage. We went into the first place we saw and asked for directions, and would you believe it was actually the right place! Some days travel days are great and work out well and other times they’re a bit rubbish. The good ones definitely leave you on a high.

Vlorë was a great place to relax for a few days and we did nothing but lie on the beach. It was bliss! The sunsets over the sea were beautiful. We decided to head to another beach, called Ksamil, I’d seen an article describing it as the Maldives of Europe so we decided we should go check it out. Our host called the bus station for us and arranged for the bus to stop near us rather than us going all the way back into town to catch it so we stood on the side of the road and flagged the daily bus to Sarandë down. The bus was full, we got on and prepared to stand for the two hours we’d been told it would take. Luckily for me the conductor said something in Albanian and a young man got up and gave me his seat. Joey wasn’t quite as lucky and had to stand. Although the man I was sat next to didn’t really speak any English he motioned that he would move up so I could move up and Joey could have half a seat. The journey was really winding through the mountains, I admit to not knowing that Albania had so many mountains, I obviously knew about the accursed mountains in the north which we’d wanted to hike, but I didn’t realise that most of the country seemed to be covered in them. We stopped after about an hour up a mountain and Joey was lucky to be in the right place at the right time to nab the one spare seat.

Becca clearly not convinced that the bus is going to turn up

Our journey ended up taking four hours rather than two. We were about 20 minutes outside of Sarandë when someone at the back of the bus started to be violently sick. I’m not sure why the locals travel by bus so much if they’re just going to be travel sick on buses! I was really not happy about this so I tried to shut my eyes and hope for the best. The conductor seemed to just be worried about his bus, but someone had handed her a bag in the nick of time. At one point I think I did catch a whiff of it and I was worried it was going to set me off so I whipped out my jar of Vicks that I always carry with me (I find a slather of it under my nose will get me through smelly toilets) and stuck that under my nose. I was glad we were nearly at Sarandë and I made sure we were quick off the bus. After we’d collected our bags we saw the lady walking down the street casually carrying her back of sick and almost swinging it. We had one more bus to Ksamil to catch, and we arrived late in the afternoon. Ksamil was beautiful, lots of hills and clear waters. It’s been a joy to swim in such clear waters and see little fish swim around. Ksamil has several beaches, we decided to aim for one called ‘The last Bay’ purely because it was the last beach and we determined that it wouldn’t be as busy, and we were right! You had to walk down some dirt tracks to get there but it was glorious. We spent two long days just chilling again, we’d been on the go for about 7 weeks at this point and needed a rest as the next two months will be intense and hot with little respite as we venture inland towards Central Asia.

We took another couple of buses to Gjirokastër, another UNESCO world heritage site, also known as Stone City. We only had one night here, but we made the most of our time, we dropped our luggage at the hostel we were staying at and headed straight out. In the Balkans we’ve been using pure WiFi and relying on downloaded Google maps to get us places. We wanted to head to the Cold War Tunnels and Google maps was sending me the most ridiculous way down roads that didn’t seem to exist. It was really hot, the hills were steep and I’d only had one coffee that day so for the first time I lost my shit (good going for 8 weeks in – if you read the India blogs you’ll know how much I lost my shit there!) and wailed ‘I hate this town!’ luckily Joey knows what to do in these situations, he took me into the shade, got me some Pepsi and all was right again.

We did make it to the war tunnels, which were really interesting. Albania’s leader was really paranoid about nuclear war and attacks so he basically bankrupted the country building bunkers that are dotted about all over the country (there’s apparently one bunker for every four people) as well as this secret nuclear bunker that could hold up to 200 people. The rooms that you can see include include the generator room, the conference room, the kitchen and two rooms for the general and the mayor. There’s also a water tank which you can climb a very rickety ladder to peer into- the water naturally pools in from the mountains and the room has stalactites!

The conference room in the Cold War tunnel

We also visited the fortress (i think in total we maybe visited 8 fortresses!) which was probably one of the best with stunning views and the ability to roam free.

Unfortunately our stay in the Balkans ended on the last night with a loss. Somewhere, somehow, in our room my fake engagement ring got knocked off a cupboard and couldn’t be found. It was very sad. Although it was fake, along with my fake wedding ring (I didn’t want to bring the real ones in case they got lost!) we’d bought them before we went to India and they travelled through India and Sri Lanka with us so they were special. Let’s hope that’s the only thing we lose!

We absolutely loved the Balkans and I’m sure there are places that we will return to.

June 15, 2023 1

A rabies scare and some yoga

Sri Lanka has two main seasons; the south west monsoon between May and November, and the North East between December and March. This means that you can always find somewhere with decent weather no matter the time of year. Bearing this in mind we still decided headed to Uppuvelli, just north of Trincomalee on the east coast. It was off season so a lot of restaurants and hotels weren’t yet open and the sea was too rough for anything more than a quick paddle. We were fortunate with the weather though and only really experienced one evening of very torrential rain. Looking out of the window it looked like a hurricane report from the BBC, it was pouring heavily with rain and palm trees were barely holding up against the wind.

We planned to chill here for a few days doing nothing more than catching some rays and relaxing. We set off just before sunrise on our first morning for a run along the beach. We haven’t really done much running since we’ve been away due to a lack of pavements and the packs of dogs which roam the streets. We’ve stuck to beaches to avoid these dogs so it was typical that morning to run into a particularly playful, boisterous dog. He kept jumping up at us and Joey was kind / brave enough to let me run on whilst he tried to distract said playful pup. Unfortunately the doggy got a little bit too excited and ended up scratching Joey. So off we headed to hospital to get a rabies jab! We were sensible and we did get all our jabs before we went away, but the rabies jab just buys you a little more time and means you only need a few post exposure jabs.

We arrived at the hospital and joined the very efficient queue. This queue was made up of rows of chairs with everyone moving one chair along as the queue moves. After a very short wait Joey got pulled out of the queue by the security guard who asked him for his passport and then quickly returned with a queue jumping number. She then ushered him to the doctors room for assessment. The doctor ummed and ahhed a bit then wrote out a card with his jab schedule on it and sent us to the drug store with a nurse. We got the price, then were accommpanied to accounts to pay and finally to the injection room. All in all it took less than hour. Two things really stood out for me and they were that white privilege is real. The amount of queue jumping that we did was insane and embarrassing and then there was the lack of patient confidentiality. People were being consulted in the same room as Joey and I was pulling faces at an old man whilst he was being injected. Not to mention everyone peeking round the curtain to get a glimpse of the white people!

The only other thing of note we did in Trincomalee was to visit their War Cemetery. It’s maintained on behalf of the Commonwealth War Graves Commission and is a beautiful peaceful place to visit. The gravestones are all equal shape and size and separated by bushes.

After our chill time we headed north to Jaffna. Jaffna was out of bounds thanks to the civil war until little over 10 years ago and even Sri Lankan’s we have met along the way say they have never been. It was certainly different to the rest of the country – grittier and definitely more like India! Even the bus ride there involved an army roadblock. Everyone piled off the bus, we were told to stay in our seats whilst everyone else had ID and luggage checked. A soldier boarded our bus, searched it and checked our passports and before we knew it we were on our way again.

We started our city explorations at the Fort which we had pretty much to ourselves. The fort is a few centuries old and is Portuguese/Dutch origin. The literature we were given was poorly translated and wasn’t really clear on a lot of things but still better than my Tamil and Sinhalese. Then we wandered to the Clock Tower and the library. The library was destroyed in the 1980s by (some say pro government) forces but was the first thing to be rebuilt when the war ended. We took a stroll to the railway station and booked ourselves on the express train out of Jaffna the next morning to Colombo where we’d then head north to Negombo, a beach resort.

The train took 7 and half hours, far and away the longest journey we’ve had in Sri Lanka, but a blink of an eye compared to some Indian journeys. Everyone started to gather their belongings up and I took a quick glance at google maps, we were definitely almost at Colombo Fort station. So we piled out the train with everyone else. I pulled my phone out again and started looking at where we needed to go to catch our bus and it looked a bit more complicated than when I’d previously looked. I took a moment to glance at my surroundings and realised that we’d got off the train a stop too early. For a brief moment I considered not telling Joey and seeing if he’d notice the extra long walk to the bus station. Maybe I could just style this mistake out? I’d had almost 40 years of styling out my mistakes, I’m sure I could do something with this. Maybe if I said it really quickly Joey wouldn’t notice?! In the end I did confess and suggested that as it was really hot maybe we should just take a tuk tuk to the bus station? Thankfully he agreed and we didn’t get divorced. Mistake styled out.

We had a nice couple of chilled days in Negombo lying on the beach and playing in the sea. We also needed to get Joey’s third rabies jab done. Only two more to go!

We have spent the last 4 days at a yoga retreat just outside of Kandy. We thought we were signing up 4 days of being told what to do which to be honest, sounded bliss. We quite liked the idea of all decisions being taken out of our hands. We had to let the staff know an hour ahead of time when we wanted to take a shower so they could light a fire to heat the water. We thought they were joking until we actually saw the barrel of water being heated by a fire. Yoga itself is definitely harder than it looks. I’m not flexible at all and with all my joint problems I really struggled, maybe it gets easier the more you practice!

We did enjoy a cooking class and got to enjoy the fruits of a labour as well as a trek to a waterfall. We all had to participate in the cooking class, I got to play with grinding a coconut. Joey thought he had the easy job of deep frying the aubergine but he had to stand over the hot fryer for about an hour! At the waterfall there is a natural pool which is full of the fish that nibble your feet. So whilst everyone else was swimming I got to have a free pedicure! It is a very strange sensation as the fish latch onto you and I really can’t believe people pay for the privilege.

Joey supervising the frying of aubergine. Obviously with a beer

It’s hard to believe our two months here have now ended and tomorrow it’s back to India! The intention is to only spend a maximum of three weeks there. We know what we want to see so it will be a couple of weeks of focus and bashing out the sights!

March 3, 2020 1

Mausoleums, monoliths and Mumbai

Most people arrive in Agra from Delhi and head to Jaipur as part of the Golden Triangle, but we like to be different so headed there after Rajasthan. This was for two reasons, Agra was well connected on the railway network and we needed to start heading south and also it was approaching my birthday and we wanted to mark the occasion at Taj Mahal.

Our arrival in Agra coincided with Diwali, the Hindu Festival of Lights. We had booked into a hostel with a roof terrace with incredible views of the Taj and took part in preparations for the Diwali celebrations with staff and other guests. We prepared oil lamps and took part in prayers and blessings before heading up to the roof to light the lamps and set off firecrackers. All this was accompanied by lots of alcohol and the incredible discovery that if you try really hard you can fit eight people in a tuk tuk. Aside from the Taj the other big (and possibly only other) attraction in Agra is its Fort. Although large and intact it was rather lifeless and underwhelming and having visited several forts in Rajasthan it left us concluding that we definitely do not need to visit any more forts for quite some time.

After two nights in a hostel dorm, including our first encounter with inconsiderate dorm mates leading to a sleepless night we were extremely excited to check out and into a fancy hotel as my birthday treat. There we did nothing but hang by the pool and marvel at the luxury (There’s a bath! Infinite hot water! There are proper napkins! The bed has a duvet!) whilst laughing at ourselves and how grateful we were for small details such as that.

We got up at 4.30am on my birthday to ensure we were amoung the first in line for sunrise. Obviously we had already seen the Taj from the hostel roof but to experience it close up was something else, particularly in the ethereal early morning light. It was so beautiful, I had never considered calling a building beautiful before but this the most beautiful, romantic building I have ever seen. The detail was astonishing and close up it becomes even clearer as the morning sun glistens off the jewels set in the walls. You’re only allowed three hours in the grounds and we spent a large part of that time just sitting and taking it all in.

After that we were back at the hotel and spent the rest of the day by pool. What a perfect birthday! When were travelling five years ago we visited Machu Picchu on my birthday so we have now decided that every five years on my birthday we have to do one of the new wonders of the world!

From Agra we took the overnight train to Jalgaon from where we intended to visit the Ajanta Caves. These are a complex of 30 Buddhist caves made up of monasteries and temples and full of statues and wall paintings. These were just stunning. Some of the caves were so dark you just couldn’t help but be mind blown by the fact that this detailed work was carried out in the dark. How the accuracy of the Buddha statues and the details in the colourful paintings were achieved in the pitch black we can only imagine. We had caught a local bus to the caves and the roads were the worst we had encountered. They were full of pot holes following the monsoon and it took 2 and half hours to drive 60kms. We spent the whole journey being thrown around the bus and were dreading the journey back. Once we finished in the caves we stood on the side of the road waiting for a bus to flag down. Then a car stopped containing three guys who had asked us for the arbitrary selfies in the cave and offered us a lift to Jalgaon. We jumped in with seemingly no hesitation, grateful that we didn’t have to do the bus ride again. It was only when we were in the car that it dawned on me that we’d gotten in a car with three strange men. Everything your parents tell you not to do. I spent the journey in a heightened state of alertness making sure my metal water bottle was close at hand so I could use it as a weapon if required. Luckily it was fine and they really were just doing a nice deed. Not sure what it says about my cynicism or India as a whole.

The next day we caught the train to Arangabad to visit the Ellora caves. These were a set of Buddhist, Hindu and Jain cave temples, equally as impressive as the Ajunta Caves. These are also home to the world’s largest monolith and a UNESCO world heritage site. Unfortunately for us, the world’s largest monolith on a weekend means hundreds of locals and that means hundreds of selfie requests. It got so overwhelming that I had to ask Joey if we could leave. Foreigners are charged 600 rupees and locals 40 so given that we were paying 15 times what they were I really wanted to enjoy the caves! We did find some quieter caves to enjoy which helped.

Tiny part of the world’s largest monolith

Again we found ourselves on the side of the road waiting for a bus. This time we were rescued by tuk tuk that contained two elderly Indian men and we shared that back to Arangabad. Joey was in the back with the elderly men and I was perched at the front with the driver who of course took selfies of us whilst driving. Upon arrival at Arangabad the heavens opened and we took shelter in a doorway at the station and waited for the rain to stop. And waited and waited. In the end as the streets were flooded and it was getting dark we decided to make a dash for it. We only had to go 300 metres but we were soaked by the time we got back.

We were due to catch a bus to Mumbai at 11.30pm so we had a lot of time to kill and headed to a shopping centre with the intention of either going bowling or to the cinema. In the end we did neither, heading instead to McDonalds and Marks and Spencers. Sometimes you just need to be reminded of home. Upon leaving the centre we tried to get a tuk tuk and inadvertently got caught up in some tuk tuk mafia warfare. Other drivers tried to stop us getting into one particular tuk tuk and even dragged the driver out for a ‘word’ it was a little bit scary but we stood our ground and made it back despite his best efforts to divert us along the way.

From Arangabad we headed south to Mumbai where we were spending a couple of nights before heading to Goa. We were a little underwhelmed by Mumbai, it felt like just another hectic city full of scams (hello milk lady!). It was a good place to get some laundry done and stock up medical supplies but otherwise it left us jaded, cold and feeling like we would rather spend time in more interesting smaller towns. We did take a boat trip across the harbour to Elephanta island and caves, again a set of cave temples. This time there were only 5 of them so I left feeling very cheated at paying the same price as we did for Ajunta and Ellora caves but the boat ride there was pleasant and it was a nice way to escape the city. There’s also a hill on the island that you can climb which we did. As we started the descent down we met a boy who stopped and asked ‘Auntie can you see me down the hill?’ It turns out that he was scared of monkeys and didn’t want to walk on his own so we accompanied him down. ‘Auntie’ is a term used towards older women so I was a little bemused by this! I can definitely pass for 27 right?!

November 25, 2019 1

Rainbows in Rajasthan

We thought it time to give you a proper update about what we have been up to rather than me wallowing in the melodrama of my nits (which Joey has now declared me free of).

After the serenity of the north we headed west to the state of Rajasthan which is famous for it’s rainbow cities. We started in Jaipur which is known as the Pink city. It felt very frantic after the chilled vibe of Manali, but other travellers we met in Agra who headed there afterwards said it felt calm to them as they completed the traditional Golden Triangle of Delhi, Agra and Jaipur.

We planned a couple of days here to cover the popular sights of the City Palace and Amber Fort. Amber Fort is 10km outside the city and we decided to catch a local bus rather than splashing on a tuk tuk. This was hilarious as we rammed onto benches constantly getting stared at. Being ‘a foreigner’ in India does have its advantages sometimes, yes you will pay more but you generally get given a seat by the locals and people help you out by telling you when you need off the bus. Also stopping at ‘service stations’ (a very loose description of a toilet shack and food stall) means the driver isn’t too likely to drive off without the two white passengers.

The Amber Fort was just one of many forts we covered in Rajasthan. It was huge and very hot, but seemed unique in that in had a Fort and a Palace within in the grounds. Poor Joey had not been well again and there was a massive uphill climb to reach the actual fort.

Our travels around Rajasthan were completed entirely on buses, some better than others but I began to realise how much I hated travel days. Well not the actual part of it, just the setting off. Upon booking a bus you are told that your bus departs from somewhere ‘near somewhere’ and from ‘near some hotel’. Sometimes you are text the bus number so you can find the bus that way but often you are on your own asking people who give you a vague wave in a vague direction. The bus to Pushkar from Jaipur was particularly stressful for that as we spent about 20 minutes trying to find the bus. But find it we did.

Pushkar was a fairly chilled hippie place with a holy lake. We’d read loads about various scams that happen alongside the lake and in the Brahma Temple. Scams make me mad, but none more so than those carried out by so called Holy Men! Luckily thanks to our research and my cynicism we avoided them and circumnavigated the lake and the temple without any issues. Pushkar also had a couple of sunset points to climb and watch the sun go down. Rajasthani sunsets were the best!

From Pushkar we headed to Udaipur. This involved yet another stressful bus journey. We had gone into a shop to buy our ticket and were told to go to one bus station to catch the bus, only when we got there we were told it was the other bus station so we had to quickly get a tuk tuk. Upon arrival there was a bus there, we’re still not sure to this day if it was meant to go to Udaipur or whether they took pity upon us. The seats that we had booked weren’t available and we had to sit on a bench directly behind the driver so we could see every last detail of his driving. He did at least wait until he’d stopped though to take the not so subtle selfie of us sitting behind him. When we arrived in Udaipur we were the last ones left on the bus and we were dropped at a random petrol station which did make us think that we had been sold a pup. Luckily tuk tuk drivers are like rats and you’re never more than 5 metres from one and he appeared from no where to swoop us up and to the sanctuary of our hostel.

Udaipur turned out to be our favourite place. The hostel had a fantastic rooftop view over the lake and we watched the sun go down every night from there. We did the usual things like temple visiting, a boat trip and visiting the City Palace.

We eventually had to move on to Jodhpur, the Blue City! This city actually lived up to its name of being blue! Jodhpur is home to the famous Mehrangarh Fort which was really good. You get a free audio guide which helped to understand the history of the place. That guide was probably slightly too long and by point 32 we reached slight hysteria about the whole thing. Our hostel ran a walking tour around the Blue City which was excellent and we were lucky enough to have the guide to ourselves.

From Jodhpur we headed to the Golden City of Jaisalmer, which is home to, yep, you guessed it, another Fort. This Fort is unique in that it is one of the few living forts in India, which helped to bring it to life. Jaisalmer is also where we did a camel safari, which was such a unique, incredible experience. You start by taking a jeep into the desert (visiting a ‘ghost town’ along the way) and then you are given your camel. Camels are incredibly tall, way taller than a horse and also slightly uncomfortable the longer you are on them. We trekked through the desert watching the sun go down. We arrived at camp and slept in the open under the stars. There were SO many stars it was phenomenal. We saw so many shooting stars.

The next morning we watched the sun rise from a sand dune and then got back on the camel. My camel definitely felt a bit feistier after a night’s rest!

We took the night bus back to Jaipur where we were crashing for a night before heading to Bharatpur, home to a famous bird sanctuary. This involved yet another stressful journey as we tried to find the bus. The instructions on the message I had for this were ‘landmark M R Travels’ and that definitely didn’t exist. I didn’t have any qualms about calling the guy who had sold us the ticket at 5.15am to try and get further information and a bus number. Amazingly it all worked and we actually got dropped off within walking distance of our hotel.

The bird sanctuary was fantastic and I enjoyed it much more than I thought I would. We arrived for the sunrise opening and hired a guide who seemed to be eagle eyed himself and we saw so many birds that we wouldn’t have had a hope of seeing without him. As well as birds we also saw antelope, deer and jackals which was amazing.

From Bharatpur we headed 90 minutes east to Agra. We didn’t book a bus and just waited on the side of the road for one to turn up. We let one government bus pass us by as it had roughly 20 people sitting on the roof. This was actually the least stressful travel day we have had so far! Again it paid to be foreigners as when the bus stopped we were let on first and got seats. We probably paid thrice the price but you know what? I wasn’t sat on the roof of a bus fearing for me and my luggage.

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